How to Keep a Leopard Gecko: A Beginner-to-Advanced Care Guide

Written by Ekulla’s Specialist Herp Keeper

 

Leopard geckos are one of the most beginner-friendly reptile pets. They’re calm, low-maintenance, and full of charm—but keeping them healthy still requires careful planning. From enclosure size to lighting, heating, humidity, feeding, and interaction, this guide offers hands-on advice to help you create a thriving habitat from day one.

1. Is a Leopard Gecko Right for You?

 

If you’re looking for a reptile that’s easy to care for, enjoys occasional handling, and fits well into indoor life, the leopard gecko is a top choice. Why?

Docile and easy to handle (no biting or tail whipping)

Eats simple live foods like crickets and mealworms

Doesn’t require strong UVB lighting (though small amounts help)

Lives 10+ years with proper care—long-term companionship

 

2. Habitat Setup: What Does a Leopard Gecko Need?

 

Recommended Enclosure Size

 

Leopard geckos are ground dwellers that don’t need vertical space, but horizontal space is essential. Here’s a size guideline by age and weight:

Life Stage

Recommended Size

Hatchling

24 x 15 x 15 in (CP1)

Juvenile

24 x 15 x 19 in (CP1 Plus)

Adult

24 x 15 x 24 in (CP1 Max) or larger

Tip: Too much vertical space can overwhelm geckos. Focus on floor space, hides, and safe heating zones.

 

Temperature & Heating

 

Warm side (day): 88–90°F (basking zone)

Cool side (day): 75–80°F

Night: Do not drop below 68°F

 

The Ekulla Omni Tank comes equipped with adjustable heat settings and built-in sensors, offering easy control without needing external thermostats.

 

Humidity

 

Ideal: 40–60% daily

Shedding: Up to 70%

 

Always provide a moist hide filled with damp moss or substrate. Ekulla’s “Gecko Mode” automatically balances humidity and airflow for safe shedding.

 

Lighting

 

Leopard geckos don’t require full-spectrum lighting, but low-level UVB (2–5%) is beneficial for vitamin D3 synthesis and bone health. Ekulla’s UVB row includes dimmable 10.0/2.0 UVB beads, with preset settings to avoid overstimulation.

 


 

3. Diet, Hygiene, and Handling Tips

 

Feeding

 

Live insects only: Crickets, Dubia roaches, mealworms

Dust with calcium powder 2–3 times per week

Juveniles eat daily; adults every 2–3 days

 

Ekulla is developing a supplemental nutrition kit and frozen insect mix to reduce the burden of keeping live bugs—stay tuned.

 

Cleaning

Spot clean daily (remove waste, refresh water)

Deep clean tank monthly

Use enclosures made of easy-to-clean materials like Scratch & Drop Proof SP-Board, found in all Ekulla tanks

 

4. Interaction and Temperament

Avoid excessive handling for the first 1–2 weeks

Handle during evening activity hours for best results

Never grab by the tail—geckos can drop it under stress

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Respect each gecko’s unique personality and tolerance

 

FAQ: What New Owners Often Ask

 

Q: Do leopard geckos need UVB?

A: It’s not essential, but 2–5% UVB improves health and bone development.

 

Q: Can I keep two geckos together?

A: It’s not recommended—especially males. Geckos are territorial.

 

Q: Heat mat or heat lamp?

A: Either can work. Bottom heat is common, but Ekulla’s tanks support multiple heating zones with safe control.

 

Q: Is a large tank bad for baby geckos?

A: Yes—overly large tanks can cause stress. The CP1 Series is designed specifically for different life stages.

 

Final Thoughts: Give Your Gecko a Real Home 

Keeping a leopard gecko isn’t difficult—but helping it thrive requires more than just “keeping it alive.” A proper enclosure, reliable heating and lighting, and simplified daily care make a world of difference.

 Ekulla Omni Tanks are designed to do just that—help you care with confidence, while giving your gecko a space that feels natural and secure.

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